Tucked away in the southwest of the Netherlands, near the Belgian border, lies the province of Zeeland.
As the name suggests, this region is known as the “land of the sea,” surrounded by water and dotted with peaceful countryside landscapes.
This time, I took a trip to the capital of Zeeland: Middelburg.
My mission? To taste the Zeeuwse Bolus, a cinnamon-swirled local pastry that’s super popular in this region!
Once a thriving port town, Middelburg still retains its historic charm—but what surprised me most was just how green and vibrant the city felt.
It’s lively without being overwhelming, with just the right mix of energy and calm.
- Start Your Middelburg Adventure at the Stunning City Hall
- Climb the Lange Jan Tower for Epic City Views
- Dive Into Zeeland’s History at the Zeeuws Museum
- Stop by the Elegant Octagon Church: Oostkerk
- Step Back in Time at Kuiperspoort
- For Zeeuwse Bolus, Head to Bliek!
- Final Thoughts｜A Town of Greenery and History, Perfect for a Day Trip
Start Your Middelburg Adventure at the Stunning City Hall
First stop: Middelburg’s City Hall (Stadhuis), located right in the center of town.
Often called one of the most beautiful city halls in the Netherlands, it’s covered in ornate Gothic details that feel straight out of a fairytale.
Right next to it is the Vleeshal, a contemporary art museum housed in a historic building. It’s where old meets new, but unfortunately, it was closed on the day I visited.
Lucky for me, it was Saturday—market day! The square in front of the city hall transforms into a buzzing Saturday market, filled with fresh produce, cheese, handmade goods, and lively cafés. Locals and tourists alike were soaking up the atmosphere.
And right on the corner of the square? A bakery called Jan Schrieks, where I grabbed my first Zeeuwse Bolus of the day!
This swirly, cinnamon-scented pastry is one of the must-try local sweets in the Netherlands.
Climb the Lange Jan Tower for Epic City Views
Next up: Lange Jan (“Tall John”)—the iconic tower that you can spot from anywhere in Middelburg.
Originally built as a monastery bell tower, it now serves as a viewing platform with an incredible panorama of the city.
To reach the top, you’ve got to climb 207 spiral steps. Yep, it’s a workout.
But trust me, it’s worth it. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with a sweeping view of the historic town, glimmering canals, and greenery all around. Absolutely breathtaking.
Right next to the tower is a cute little flower shop, with the prettiest displays—definitely Instagram-worthy.
And don’t miss Reigerstraat, a narrow, leafy lane right beside the flower shop.
It’s covered in greenery like a tunnel, and birdcages hang from above—so photogenic! Apparently, the decorations change from time to time.
Dive Into Zeeland’s History at the Zeeuws Museum
If you’re into culture, the Zeeuws Museum is a must.
Located right in the center of town, it’s housed in a former abbey and looks almost like a castle!
Inside, you’ll find exhibits covering Zeeland’s history and seafaring culture, with lots of treasures from its days as a port hub.
One of the highlights? A huge embroidered carpet depicting a 17th-century harbor scene—so detailed you could stare at it for hours.
Even the ceilings in the exhibit halls are worth noting—some reminded me of Laputa-style fantasy vibes. Every room has something visually cool going on.
Step outside into the inner courtyard, and you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled into a secret garden.
Surrounded by historic buildings and filled with tall trees, it’s super quiet and peaceful.
Stop by the Elegant Octagon Church: Oostkerk
Next stop: Oostkerk, one of Middelburg’s most recognizable buildings.
Built in the 17th century in Baroque style, it has an eye-catching octagonal shape and a super bright and airy interior.
Unlike many other Dutch churches, Oostkerk’s round design makes it really unique.
Inside, it’s calm and quiet—perfect for a little break during your walk.
The pipe organ is also stunning.
Step Back in Time at Kuiperspoort
To wrap up the city stroll, I headed to Kuiperspoort—a historic alleyway that once housed barrel makers.
Cobblestone paths and centuries-old buildings make this area feel like a real time machine to the 1600s.
It’s a favorite among photographers, especially during the golden light of morning or evening. Pure old-world charm.
For Zeeuwse Bolus, Head to Bliek!
To wrap up the trip to Middelburg, I made one last stop at another bakery: Bliek. It’s a long-established local favorite.
And of course, I got myself a Zeeuwse Bolus here too.
Zeeuwse Bolus is a specialty of the Zeeland region—spiral-shaped sweet bread generously coated with cinnamon and brown sugar, then baked until soft and sticky. It’s sweet, chewy, and kind of addictive.
You can find them at supermarkets too as a sort of local “B-grade” sweet, but nothing beats the freshly baked ones straight from the bakery.
Softer, more cinnamon-forward, and with that satisfyingly gooey sugar coating—they tasted amazing.
Bliek even sells a jumbo-sized Zeeuwse Bolus, bigger than your face and just over €2! It’s a showstopper visually, which makes it a perfect souvenir too.
Compared to the regular size, the jumbo version has a bit more of a bready texture and is more filling. Just pop it in the oven for a few minutes and the sugar on top crisps up beautifully—next-level delicious.
Final Thoughts｜A Town of Greenery and History, Perfect for a Day Trip
Middelburg is a charming city where historic architecture and natural greenery coexist beautifully. I was especially taken by the stunning city hall, and the creative way the town incorporates greenery into everyday spaces.
Next time, I’d love to take a boat tour and see the old harbor from the water.
Weekends in Middelburg are surprisingly lively—the open terraces and bustling markets added great energy to the trip.
Zeeland is also known for its delicious seafood, so next time I’d like to sit down at a nice restaurant and enjoy a proper meal there too.
It takes about three hours one-way from Amsterdam. I just got on a direct train, worked a bit on my laptop, and before I knew it—I was there.
A quick sightseeing stroll and a warm Zeeuwse Bolus before heading back—Middelburg made for a perfect blend of work and leisure in a memorable day trip.
